Have you seen the pictures lately? If you haven't remember to go to:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30520769@N06/
November 12th, Wednesday: The local news here in Utah is showing the rain in the Seattle area. Which is making us really, really, really want to get back. So much so, we are not sure of our route through Washington State. . . .For all of the flooding and road closures. Geez.
Speaking of weather, that is becoming the dominant factor in our remaining journey. We have always depended on the NOAA National Weather Service for their forecast and we did so again today. And, again we weren’t disappointed.
The shortest route between Moab and Salt Lake City is over Highway 6 from Green River, through Price and then down the west slope of the Wasatch Range. But, the NWS showed heavy snow in the mountains west of Price so we chose to take the longer route over I-70 to Utah 50.
This particular section of I-70 west of the Utah 24 turn off (to the Maze and Hanksville) was one that we had never been on before. Our maps didn’t snow any passes but we were expecting at least one (over the Wasatch Range). As it turned out there were three, up to 7,800 feet elevation. But, the roads were sparsely traveled, winds were light, temperatures were in the upper fifties, LaFawnduh was strong as ever, and the drive was pleasant.
Moving down the west slope we pointed out two old railroad tunnels along the side of the road. The tracks had been removed and Hannah said that it would be a great bicycling trail. About a half mile further we came across three wranglers driving about a hundred head of Angus beef along the former track bed. One was leading on his horse, while two were following up the rear. It was quite a sight.
Further down the mountain we chased a “snow bow” (rainbow except with snow) down the hillside. The snow was above us and on the roadway there was a light sprinkle. The girls would comment, “
We’re almost catching it. Oh darn, it got away.” So we had a discussion of light and physics and the miles flew by.
We were soon on I-15 moving northward and all was good for traveling. Occasional light rain, and as we passed Spanish Fork where Highway 6 meets I-15 there was snow in the mountains, so we were happy with our choice of routes. There has been so much snow in Utah that Brighton Ski Area is already open and two other areas are scheduled to open this weekend (including Park City).
Diesel at Flying J’s along the I-15 corridor was $2.86.9 per gallon, the least that we’ve seen on this trip.
After all of our scenic driving through the high desert, Canyonlands country it was a bit difficult to be back in the traffic of the Salt Lake City area. I asked Con if there was anything that she wanted to do here and she said, “No.”
So we turned westward on I-80 and drove along the south shore of the Great Salt Lake. West of the lake we saw where your table salt comes from, a Morton Salt Company plant that had piles of salt next to conveyors that were probably a hundred feet high. Then keeping with the salt theme we stopped at the Bonneville Salt Flats, made infamous by folks such as Craig Breedlove, Rollie Free, and the recent movie, “World’s Fastest Indian”.
A few more miles and we were in West Wendover, Nevada. Casinos are everywhere albeit they look pretty much the same as if my Mom and Dad had visited here during their drives to California in the 50’s. But, most importantly the hotel prices are cheaper than some of the RV parks that we’ve stayed at on this trip. So, I am writing this blog entry from our hotel room at the Red Garter Hotel and Casino. How about that? The route home is still in the air due to the weather. I can’t predict which route we’re going to take at this point. We’ll just have to be flexible as we move out today.
BTW, today LaFawnduh turned over 10,000 miles in this journey. I'll have to check on the mileage in Kip, but it is more than what I thought it was going to be.
November 11th, 2008, Tuesday: Con decided that we should have a day of relaxation, study, and chores before heading westward. So, the laundry got done, the kids studied, and then it was time to explore.
Audrey has been wanting to obtain some sand from the area so we drove to the biggest sand pile that we were aware of. The sand hill near the entrance to Arches NP. But, seemingly the sand at the bottom of the hill was of a lesser quality than the sand at the top of the hill for the kids were up the hill in a flash with Cocoa on their hills. After being threatened with a slow, painful, death, the kids reluctantly left the biggest sand box that they had ever played in. This again reiterates my belief that the best toys are the simplest. A pile of sand provided a TON of fun.
Then we were off to one of my destinations for the day, the spring along the Castle Valley road near the Colorado River. I don’t know if it is because whenever I drink from this water source it has usually been after I had just finished a day long mountain biking trip, but I believe that this water is the tastiest, most refreshing water to be had on the planet.
Con suggested that we should drive towards Dead Horse State Park and we were off. But, as we were nearing our turn off Con saw that it was an easy drive to Grand View Point in the Islands of the Sky District of
Canyonlands, so we altered our destination.
We had never been to Grand View in all of our trips to
Moab and after making the easy drive we wanted to kick ourselves for not doing so in the past.
Geez. The pictures on the
Flickr site do not do any justice for the view was from horizon to horizon and was awesome! Audrey said,
"This is better than the Grand Canyon."
Reluctantly, after checking out the National Weather Service forecast for the Pacific Northwest we have decided that it is time to begin heading that direction. For presently between
Moab and Port Angeles are areas of snow, high wind warnings, heavy rain, and flood warnings. During this trip I have told folks along the way that we were heading home during the worse month of the year. You know, the month that I wish I were leaving the state instead of returning to it. Well, it seems that the good old rain train and low pressure systems common to November are not letting us down. Good for us.
So, tomorrow after breakfast we will hitch up Kip to
LaFawnduh and start moving towards the northwest. The exact route is still up in the air. We will be checking with the
NWS forecast as we near intersections before committing ourselves to north or west or holing up. For instance, do we take Highway 6 or Interstate 70? Do we go North on I-15 into Idaho or west on I-80 into Nevada???????
So, we sadly bid ado to
Moab . There are a number of things that I would have liked to have shared with the girls: The Needles District, mountain biking, The Great Gallery, The Flint Trail, etc., but amazingly, after all of our trips here the past few days have provided us with a number of firsts: New dinosaur tracks, new dinosaur bones, new
petroglyphs, new areas that we had never seen before such as Islands in the Sky and the Grand View. I guess we’ll just have to come back (when we do it will be my sixteenth trip here).
Quote of the day provided by Hannah: "
I've decided today that this is wonderland!"
November 10th, 2008, Monday: After a day spent in Kip, the family was eager to hike.
We left it up to Con to decide the destination and she easily chose Delicate Arch in Arches National Park.
Cocoa was happy to be left in
LaFawnduh as the previous day was an indicator to her that maybe it is a good idea to not always tag along with these folks. On Sunday the miles of jostling led to hours of floor hugging for our canine companion. Today, Cocoa was very content to be left behind and occupy her spot on the couch in order to simply “chill”.
We have a National Park pass for this trip and on its face is a picture of Delicate Arch. We’
ve been here many times in the past and our friend Jeff
Chikusa even wants his ashes spread in the area (many decades from now). The spot is magical. Weather was near perfect for the hike in to the arch. Pass the Wolfe Ranch, the
Petroglyphs and up the petrified sand dunes. Moving from one cairn to the next Audrey and I appointed ourselves the unofficial cairn repair crew and we would pile rocks higher into the air and bedeck them with a high tower finally capped with the smallest of rocks (maybe even as small as a quarter inch in diameter). During our return trip from the Arch we even saw hikers taking photos of our cairns. Audrey thought that was pretty neat.
Delicate Arch occupies a prominent spot all by itself at the head of a sloped Estrada Sandstone canyon. Its standing alone makes it special in this land of over 2,000 arches. We all enjoyed the view, the experience, the warmth of the sun, and the coolness of the air. Perfect hiking conditions. Con had an ear-to-ear grin on her face that her children noticed.
But, alas we had to move on for we had a reservation for a guided hike into the Fiery Furnace. We had to say, "See you later" to Delicate Arch sooner than we may have preferred. Con elected to sit this hike out so Audrey, Hannah, and I met with our 8 other hiking companions and our Ranger, Dick
Tolt, for the 3 hour, 3 mile hike into the narrow canyons so aptly called “The Fins”. I have been in the Fiery Furnace on numerous occasions dating back to 1985 when Bill
Koeppen and I first discovered this place. Frankly, I was reluctant to take a guided tour but as it turned out Ranger
Tolt took us to places that I had never been before, seeing sights that I had never seen before, and providing us with a narrative that was very educational (to even me). Now, I understand the geology of the area like never before, and have a working knowledge of the plant fauna, so much so, I think I could walk through the desert for a week with no provisions and be able to sustain myself (don’t worry, I’m not going to do that). Audrey displayed a boldness during the hike that was not present before the beginning of this little RV trip as she declined my assistance (hand) to negotiate the cracks, walls, and narrow shelves of the canyon. Our hike into the Fiery Furnace was a highlight of this entire trip for me and I’m sure for the kiddies. Audrey says that it is number two, right behind swimming with the dolphins.
If you are ever in the area, are relatively fit, and would like a memorable experience I recommend this guided
NPS tour. Sign up at the Visitors Center near the entrance to the park.
Con picked us up at the end of our hike and we went into
Moab for the evening. We love the town that this place has become. Back in ‘85 it was a dying former Uranium mining town, almost qualifying for “ghost town” status. The national parks alone
weren’t enough to bring the tourists as most would bypass this area for the more famous Grand Canyon to the south or Yellowstone to the north. Mountain biking became a big thing and this area is now known worldwide as the mountain biking Mecca of the world. The mountain biking getting its beginning on a off-road motorcycle trail, the famous
Slickrock Trail. Seeing that it is autumn most of the tourists here are European.
Moab today is a tourist town, but one that has somehow remembered its roots. I love this place. We could spend months here just exploring Canyon country; on foot, on bikes, on my motorcycle, in the Jeep. As far as I'm
concerned this could have been the single destination of our entire trip and we would all have went home very happy.
We could stay many more days but for the past week Con has been struggling with vertigo. This daily event (she wakes up with it) has greatly affected her ability to enjoy the remaining days of the trip. It even prevented us from taking our helicopter ride in the Grand Canyon since none of us wanted to go without Mom. Hence, we are at a point of reevaluating our remaining itinerary. It may even require us to sprint home (1,000 miles from Seattle to
Moab). Tuesday, November 11
th, will most likely be a day of decision. . . .
November 9th, Sunday: Audrey wanted to go four-wheeling so I could think of no better place to go than the most remote area of
Canyonlands National Park, The Maze District. So we piled into the Jeep and drove over 330 miles, 140 miles of which were on pavement and the remaining 190 miles
wasn’t. Some of these latter miles taken at about a half mile per hour while climbing over the slick rock trails.
Actually as our day began our destination was the Great Gallery, but the hike was deemed too long in this almost winter environ. Temps were in the 40s, rain clouds would come and go, and there was a 40% chance of rain. We did experience rain albeit for about two seconds, leaving one drop over about every six square inches of windshield. The girls reluctantly adapted to not venturing into the Great Gallery and we had an amazing time rock crawling in one of the most remote areas of the lower 48 states.
That is Audrey and Hannah treated the experience as a roller coaster ride, Con, on the other side of the coin was heard on numerous occasions remarking,
“Where the heck are we?” Or,
“Let me out!”
When we were finally on pavement (it was dark by that time) and headed back towards home (
LaFawnduh) Con laughed and relaxed and said,
“Now I finally understand what they mean by pucker factor.”I thought,
“Now?” I’
ve had the same peculiar sensation on numerous occasions during our years together. Most vividly while kayaking the
Albertson Gorge way back in 1983. I think Con is one tough gal to have taken this long to “finally” understand that particular sphincter closing sensation. I've known about it for years.
Geez.
Meanwhile, Hannah and Audrey hooped and hollered and Cocoa clung to the floor.
November 8th, Saturday: Quote of the day provided by Hannah,
“I am a Moab Girl!”
The magic continues.
Moab, Utah continues to bedazzle us.
Today we explored Arches National Park in the morning before going into
Moab for shopping and dinner.
The highlight in Arches NP was our hike to and climb around Double Arch. This is the arch made famous by the young Boy Scout Indiana Jones at the beginning of "Indiana Jones The Last Crusade". Then Hannah and I roped up and we scrambled up to the Cove of Caves, also in the movie's opening scenes. Audrey scrambled higher than she ever had as she
experienced first hand the traction that one can have with the right shoes on
Slickrock (dry
slickrock as opposed to the wet variety which has about as much traction as an ice cube).
Then in the afternoon we headed to the dinosaur tracks that Con and I have been going to since 1993. The road off of Highway 191 was unfamiliar to us. So much so that we thought we might not be at the right place. We later learned that a flood in 2006 had drastically altered the area. So much so that the road turns in a different direction and moves to the right around a rock formation where it had previously moved to the left. Then as we neared the area of the dinosaur tracks we came across signage about of all things, dinosaur tracks. But, the area was unfamiliar to us. So much so, we don’t believe that the dinosaur tracks that we had seen in the past are the same as what we saw today. The signs said that there were five different dinosaur tracks in the area including that of a large plant eater (we had never seen this before). While we were there we came across a couple from Grand Junction, Colorado. They had read in the Denver newspaper an article about the dinosaur tracks near
Moab and had found them that way. They told us about dinosaur bones that were nearby. Word of mouth continues to be the source of amazing surprises for us on this trip. Today was another example of this. For this is my fifteenth trip to
Moab since 1985 and I had never seen dinosaur bones before. But today, I did.
Dinosaur tracks and dinosaur bones, the kids were in
Moab Heaven.
Another quote provided by Hannah today,
“This place is better than Disney World.”
November 7, 2008, Friday: Before heading to
Moab we left
LaFawnduh rest for a few hours in
Blanding and then we headed to our Anasazi Ruin in southeastern Utah. First stop was the excavated site near the roadway, a
Kiva, and dwellings. The kids were amazed by the age of all that they were looking at. 1275, the archaeologists tell us.
Then we drove off road, through the gate, through the pinion and juniper and over the red rock to the mouth of the canyon. Audrey was ecstatic about the towers and the canyon and we happened upon a grave that Con and I had never seen before. Hannah and I down climbed into the canyon while Con and Audrey watched us with binoculars. The site seemed to be as magical for Hannah and Audrey as it was for Con and me. Amazing to think of families living on the cliff sides. Toddlers. Mothers carrying infants.
Then north of Highway 191 towards
Moab. The Needles District of
Canyonlands NP on our left, red rock surrounded by white capped mountains rising to 11,000 feet.
After setting up camp west of Arches NP we went back into
Moab for our BBQ ribs. We drove by the restaurant and to our dismay it was a funeral home. Plan B - Eddie
McStiffs pizza. A great restaurant in itself that Con still wears a tee shirt from. The waitress told us that the proprietor of the BBQ place retired. Sold the building and yes, it is a funeral home. I'd tell you the name of the restaurant but I'm so
disappointed in its demise that I'm not going to bother. Okay, I will, it was a great place, Fat City Smokehouse.
We love
Moab,
Canyonlands and the area. All four of us.
November 6, 2008, Thursday: 6 of one, half a dozen of the other. The decision to go through
Moab or California was a toss-up. Which way to go? Which way to go? At the Grand Canyon campsite, in the 20 degree weather it was decided to head towards California. So, off we went. Then we got to the “T” in the road where left was towards
Moab and right was towards Death Valley, California. As we neared the intersection I was prepared to turn right when Con said, “I sure was looking forward to that barbecue.” I immediately knew what she was referring to and what she actually meant. After 32 years of marriage I know that she was actually saying, “I want to go to
Moab, for a lot of reasons, one of them is to have BBQ and bread pudding at that Marine’s place. You know the restaurant, the one with Chesty Puller’s picture on the wall”.
Without any further conversation, I turned left.
We enjoyed the drive along the south rim to the East Entrance of the Grand Canyon. We
wouldn’t have seen these sites had we not gone to
Moab. The openness of the terrain through northeastern Arizona again reminded us of the movie, Cars. When we intersected with highway 98, Con and I were back in familiar territory. We knew to drive to
Kayenta, Arizona and stop at the Burger King where there was a Memorial to the WWII Marines known as the Navajo Code Talkers. We were in the land of the Navajo. The land was red rock, occasionally interspersed with green pinion pine and juniper. Con said that it looked like Christmas year round. Smiles were all around.
The highlight of the day was our driving the Jeep through Monument Valley, background of many John Ford movies and John Wayne westerns. Con was driving Kip and had it in 4-low with the sway bar disconnected. The girls especially enjoyed the sandstone pillars known as the Mittens, but they treated the Jeep ride as if it were a roller coaster. Screams and extended arms were the song and dance of the day.
After the slow drive around the Grand Canyon, the stop in
Kayenta, and the two hours spent in Monument Valley the evening found us falling short of our destination of
Moab, but that’s alright for tomorrow is another drive in the Jeep to my secret, non-advertised destination of an
unexcavated Anasazi Ruin. I’
ve been going there since 1985 when a University of Utah Archaeology professor told me about it. It is a magical place that Con and I love to go to. It will be Hannah’s and Audrey’s first trip there. I can’t wait for them to experience it.
Then it is on to
Moab.
We know we’re getting close because we are seeing cars with bicycle racks and Mountain Bikes.
Unfortunately, although I’m writing this on Thursday night at our Bluff, Utah campground; I won’t be able to see it until tomorrow (hopefully) since the Verizon Air Card
doesn’t have any reception here.
The pictures of Monument Valley will have to wait as well. . . .